Surf Reference Guide
Learning to surf down line just ahead of a breaking wave requires 4 main elements: #1 The Pop Up/Stance, #2 Padding, #3 Catching the Wave, and finally #4 Surfing Down the Line. The following guide is not intended to be a “how to surf 101” rather it will surf as a reference to your in water sessions. Think of it like an abridged textbook to accompany your surfing journey.
1. Surf Stance/The Pop Up
Stance
More important than the pop up itself, every good surfer starts with a good stance:
Hips rotated forward to face the nose of the board.
Feet angled ~ 30 deg in the back and ~45 in the front. Feet spaced about shoulder width apart or what ever feels most comfortable.
Knees flexed, Body stays upright. Head stays up.
Head over front foot. You will be down the face of the wave so your weight needs to be forward. Imagine dropping into a skateboard ramp.
The Pop Up
The goal of the pop up is to move from the prone position (lying on stomach) of paddling into the surf stance. The pop up can be broken down into 5 steps:
- Head up: Lift your head and place your hands flat on the deck of the board just under your armpits.
2. Cobra: Push off your hands, lifting your chest and head like a cobra ready to strike.
3. Set Back Foot: Lift your hips to create space. Move your back foot up on the board about 2 feet.
4. Front Knee to Chest: Rotate your hips as you bring your front knee up to your chest.
5. Stand up Slow: Once both feet are set stand up nice and slow.
THE MOST IMPORTANT PART OF THE POP UP IS KEEPING YOUR HEAD AND EYES UP. DO NOT LOOK AT YOUR BOARD.
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2. Positioning and Paddling
Paddling 101
Overall paddling ability is the most overlooked surfing skill. While it can be broken down further, It mainly comes down to 3 key concepts:
1. Find the sweet spot. You want to be positioned on board so are not sinking the nose or tail. This the just right spot (technically called glide point).
2. Lift chest and head
3. Keep Feet together
Take note of the 3 key concepts as you enjoy this video from Brian of the Longboard Sessions YouTube channel:
Paddling Out
Paddling out to the line up often involves padding through breaking waves.
For Small Waves: you can simply do a mini push up or cobra on the board to create some space for the wave to pass between you and the board. This will also keep your head out of harms way.
For larger Waves: you will need to learn something called the turtle roll:
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